Abraço e até breve.
Preparations for the “Rumble in the Jungle II – A Missão” continue very much like the series of famous Hollywood movies: Fast and furious.
In between all the miriad things involved in running a tournament I also took the time to work on some new scenery pieces to dress our tables for the event. If you’re following our Facebook page or our Instagram account you’ve probably seen a sneak peek of what we’ve been working on, and because of the photos we’ve published on the aforementioned social media outlets, we have received a few requests to share how we went about weathering some of the scenery pieces we’ve been working on.
Not wanting to keep my readers in the dark I thought it would be a nice idea to share the painting process of one of my new scenery pieces, an Imperial Bastion from Games Workshop.
Unfortunately I won’t have here photographs of the first steps of the painting process (which I’ll probably cover in more detail in another article soon), but it is pretty simple and easy to understand with a description.
I started by applying a black primer over the entire model, followed by an application of a dark metallic paint covering all the primer. When the metallic paint dried I applied a paint mixture to simulate rust, a lot like what I described on my salt weathering article.
When that rust wash was dry it was finally time to begin painting and to begin this quick tutorial article.
When I was researching weathering techniques and came across the aforementioned salt weathering technique I also found out about hairspray weathering, which consisted in applying a coat of hairspray to your model before applying paint and later peeling off the paint to reveal whatever was underneath when the paint applied over the hairspray was moistened with warm water.
Acording to the articles this technique produced a great effect of scratched paint, which is exactly what I wanted for this scenery piece in particular, so it was high time I gave it a go. So my first step was to apply a coat of hairspray on top of the entire model after the rusted metallic basecoat was dry. In order to protect the original paint I applied a coat of gloss varnish and waited for it to dry before I applied the hairspray.
With the hairspray dry it was time to begin painting. Using an airbrush I applied a coat of yellow over the entire model.
I painted two Imperial Bastions, so, in order to differentiate between the two, I thought about making this one a command fortification. To denote the differentiated status I decided to apply a strip of a different color on some of the building’s facades, and to protect the yellow from overpray from the airbrush I used some masking tape.
With my base colors done, it was time to begin the weathering process. Different from the salt weathering technique, when all I had to do was dousing the salt with water and wait for it to dissolve, the process here takes a while longer and demands a little more effort, but gives in my opinion it gives the painter a lot more control over where you’ll get the scratches on the paint.
To start the process you need to apply some warm water on top of model moistening the paint. The water will seep through and dissolve the hairspray beneath loosening the paint applied on top of it and allowing us to scratch it off using a toothpick or a brush with stiff bristles.
After I was done with removing the paint I felt like the bastion needed that extra “bling” to further enforce its command status, and I felt this would be a great opportunity to use a stencil. I had a couple of self adhesive vinyl stencils produced by Fallout Hobbies to use with airbrushes, especially their Vehicle Squad stencil (for adding unit markings to vehicles) which sported a skull with laurels which would be spot on for what I needed.
It was time to add masking tape to the model again.
After the detail was applied with the stencil I added some weathering to it, distressing the paint just like I had done to the yellow and red previously applied.
After I was satisfied with all the weathering to the paint I sealed the paintjob with another coat of gloss varnish and proceeded to add some rust streak marks using the same mixture of paints originally applied to the metallic basecoat. I also went back to some of the metal parts that looked too dulled and re-applied some of the original metal color.
When I was done with all the weathering steps it was time to add the fine detail to the building painting some lenses and lamps. For the lamps I wanted to try some OSL (Object Source Lighting) so I broke out the airbrush once more to paint the lighting effect.
In the end the entire process was a great learning experience of yet another useful technique I’ve added to my repertoire, and I was really satisfied with the final result, which I’ll showcase soon on the gaming tables of the Rumble in The Jungle II.
And on that note, we wrap up this article. See you soon!
Over and out.